Supporters of the WMCC

Farley Ledges

The rock at Farley, like much of rock in the area, is gneiss. It is characterized by big sloping horizontals, small edges and sweeping features. The climbing at Farley is powerful so bring your guns when you show up. The climbing is best when friction is the highest. This translates generally into ideal spring and fall conditions though the heavily forested area provides ample shade for those hot summer days.

As part of the WMCC land acquisition, an environmental management plan has been assembled. Please click here to download the management plan.



For the past several years Farley has had big access issues. The problem is that parking, trail access, climbing and bouldering are split across the property of five different landowners and a huge public utility company. Just recently however, through the work of the WMCC, land was purchased to prevent development from occuring at the base of the cliffs and to establish permanent public access. Just west from Holmes Ave down Route 2 near a gravel pullout on the cliff side of the street, a new parking lot and trailhead have been built and the future is looking brighter. This new lot was built for 16 cars though can take a few more. Please park considerately. Overflow parking still exists at the old 8-car lot on Wells Street (Holmes Ave) located just to the east on Route 2 across from the cabin looking house. Overflow parking is also available across the Millers River on Bridge Street (Farley Rd) in the small dirt lot. It's a 5 min. walk to either of the two other parking areas from here. Please remember that both of these overflow areas are located on private property and exist at the gererousity of the current landowners. Conduct yourselves accordingly because our privelege to park there can be revoked at any time.




The main access trail is located beyond the kiosk at the end of the parking lot. From the parking lot, walk north up the hillside to the intersection with the Red Dot trail. Turn right and the trail will wind through the boulder field before it meets the multi-state Metacomet-Monadnock Trail (M&M trail) at Briggs Brook. Continue straight ahead and the trail will take you to the Wall of Early Mornign Light, the most popular sport climbing wall at Farley. To the left the Red Dot trail continues around the back and ridge of Rattlesnake Mountain which is spectacular 1-1/2 mile hike in it's own right. Many portions of trail are located on private property so please show your respect. Keep your dogs leashed when visiting Farley Ledge since many of the abutting landowners also have dogs.


CLOSURE  A portion of Farley Ledge is currently closed due to falcon activity. In an effort to protect these state protected birds and their habitat and as suggested by the MA Department of Fisheries and Wildlife, the Yellow Wall and Main Slab areas are closed until June 15. This closure includes all bouldering and roped climbing ABOVE the following boulder problems: Terrordactyl, Tweaky Bird, Appetite for Destruction, and Mid-Sized Man. If you are uncertain about where these formations are, just be sure to stay off the trails, talus and cliffs ABOVE the flagging tape and signs.

Current issues

The WMCC, with the help of roughly 25 Westefield State College students, recently completed an early spring trail improvement project. The initial section of trail as it leaves the parking lot got rerouted to avoid drainage issues, the kiosk got relocated, erosion control fencing was removed and general maintenance and repairs were made throughout the parking lot. It was a super productive day and things look good for the 2011 season.

Some additional trail projects, including this year's Adopt-A-Crag, will be happening later this season. Stay tuned for more info.

Commerical Guiding

Since a portion of Farley Ledge is owned by FirstLight & Power, climbers and other visitors to that land are obligated to follow the rules and regulations established by the Northfield Mountain Environmental & Recreation Center. Part of these regulations include restrictions on the licensed use of their property for professional guiding services. At this time, FirstLight and Northfield Mountain are not interested in allowing licensed use of the cliffs for commerical climbing classes or trips. This is limited to the portion of Farley Ledge owned by FirstLight. Property owner information can be found on the kiosk at the main trail head.