Farley Ledge

Description

Located off of Route 2 in Erving, this extensive ridge and talus field offers up some of Massachusetts’ finest climbing and bouldering. Farley Ledge contains some of the states best traditional leads as well as many previously bolted sport climbs up to 5.13b. The placement of top anchors and re-establishing the sport climbs at Farley will be an important step in securing the crag as one of states’ best. The recent bouldering explosion yielded some of the most impressive and hardest problems in the state (V12/V13). While being riddled with several test pieces, Farley Ledge also contains several moderate climbs and problems that are well worth the visit.
The rock at Farley, like much of rock in the area, is gneiss. It is characterized by big sloping horizontals, small edges and sweeping features. The climbing at Farley is powerful so bring your guns when you show up. The climbing is best when friction is the highest. This translates generally into ideal spring and fall conditions though the heavily forested area provides ample shade for those hot summer days..

Parking

Parking is the most tenuous issue at Farley Ledge. At the moment, parking is limited to 8 cars in a small privately owned lot, marked with a kiosk, at the end of Wells Street, a private residential neighborhood. The current landowners have been gracious enough to continue to allow parking on their property so please show respect for their generosity. In the event the lot is full, ample parking can be found directly across Route 2 and the Millers River in a dirt pullout. Please use this if the other first lot is full. Continued access to Farley largely depends on peoples’ respect for the limitations we are faced with.

Trails

The main access trail is located to the right of a large boulder in front of the adjacent log cabin. This trail also marks a portion of the multi-state Metacomet-Monadnock Trail maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club that extends northward towards Erving State Forest. The trail parallels Briggs Brook before coming to a wooden footbridge at the base of the cascades. The M&M Trail continues to the right while the climbing and bouldering areas are accessed by turning left and then cutting up right on a trail that runs through the boulder field and along the base of the cliff. Similar to the parking area, the first portions of trail are located on private property so please show your respect. Keep your dogs leashed when visiting Farley Ledge since many of the abutting landowners also have dogs.

Closures

Falcons have been observed nesting at Farley Ledge in previous years. In an effort to protect these state protected birds and their habitat and as suggested by the MA Department of Fisheries and Wildlife, the Yellow Wall and Main Slab areas are closed until April 15 unless nesting birds are observed, thereby extending the closure period until July 15. This closure includes all bouldering and roped climbing ABOVE the following boulder problems: Terrordactyl, Tweaky Bird, Appetite for Destruction, and Mid-Sized Man. If you are uncertain about where these formations are, just be sure to stay off the trails, talus and cliffs ABOVE the flagging tape.

Current issues

The WMCC closed on the sale of the Lehman house in January 2008. This occasion marked a significant stage in the overall goals of this property purchase. Efforts are now set on repaying any outstanding loans and construction of the parking area. As of March 2008, we still need to raise about $30,000 so your continued support is critical. Stay tuned for information on several fundraising events planned for upcoming months.

Farley Ledge has long been considered the crown jewel of climbing in Massachusetts though few would ever know. The WMCC has been working hard with all of the current landowners to ensure Farley Ledge’s protection and to ensure continued climbing access. The WMCC has established good relationships with all of the landowners as long as everyone is willing to abide by the rules. Please read the kiosk and rules that are posted. Be courteous to the neighbors, drive slowly through the neighborhood and most of all, enjoy the climbing Farley Ledge has to offer so you can understand why we are working so hard to protect it.

Events

There are currently no events planned for Farley Ledge.